A week before Valentine's Day, Inna Yermolovych and Yulya Dmytrieeva booked train tickets from Ukraine's capital, Kyiv, to the east, where they will meet their husbands — soldiers who serve in the same unit.
"On this day, we usually expect presents and flowers, cards and hearts," says Inna, a 30-something import manager and hat-maker. "Not this year."
She and her husband, Dima, are newlyweds. She hasn't seen him for a month. Seeing him for even a couple of days, she says, "recharges me."
"It's amazing, these moments," she says. "I enjoy even how he's drinking tea or how he's putting on his shoes or, like, how he's moving, just to see he's breathing."
Yulya and her husband, Vadym, have been together for almost 14 years. "He's incredible," says Yulya, who's 49, works in IT and has red-tinted dreadlocks. "He's creative. And he makes people around him happy."
The women board a train headed to the Donetsk region, where the war's fiercest fighting is going on. It's filled with the partners of soldiers fighting there. The route that starts in Kyiv and ends in the city of Kramatorsk is sometimes called the "train of love."
Inna and Yulya are due to get off at the train's second-to-last stop. Inna's husband, Dima, arrives first.
"She's the best thing in my life," he says. "She's what I'm fighting for and what I live for."
Then Yulya's husband, Vadym, arrives, running to the train of love to meet her. Like Yulya, he also has dreadlocks, but his are dyed blue and yellow — the colors of the Ukrainian flag.
Vadym's face lights up when he sees his wife. She jumps into his arms and they kiss. Inna and Dima hug each other tightly.
There are reunions all day at the Sloviansk station and at the train's final stop, in Kramatorsk. Every day is Valentine's Day here. Shops that sell flowers and chocolates are always busy, making as much money as they did before the war.
It's snowing, so Dima and Vadym take their wives to a cafe to warm up. They try to see their wives as often as possible. They lament that wartime separation has ended too many marriages.
"Some wives go abroad and build new lives," Dima says. "And sometimes, women who stay here cannot understand how their husbands change on the battlefield."
Vadym brings up a soldier in their unit who divorced his wife.
"She made all of us these," Vadym says, holding up his wrist to show a knitted friendship bracelet. "After we returned from a difficult combat mission, something snapped in him and he said he could no longer talk to her."
There's a couple moments of silence. Then they change the subject. Inna and Dima talk about having kids. Vadym and Yulya say they plan to adopt. But two years of war have also lowered expectations for the future.
"The main thing now is to just stay alive," Vadym says, "and that's what we plan to do."
At the station, the next train of love arrives. Soldiers holding flowers line the platform, waiting for the doors to open.
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