Bare root plants are one to three-year-old nursery stock that are dug up, stored, and shipped without soil or potting mix surrounding their roots. Bare root plants are inexpensive, easy to plant, and offer field-grown hardiness. In the video below, Erik Helland of Landscape Garden Center explains some of the benefits of planting bare root plants and gives examples of the different types available.
The method for planting trees does not change, whether they are bare root, container-grown, or balled/burlapped. Erik Helland of Landscape Garden Center has the following instructions for planting trees:
Locate the graft union
The graft union is the swollen area at the base of the stem. The graft union is a scar or healed wound that results when a small shoot (scion) is grafted to specially selected root stock. It is important that the graft union be at or slightly above the soil level. You will want to make sure that none of the trees main stem is buried. If the stem is exposed to excessive moisture, the result could be rotting or a disease that may kill the tree.
Digging the hole
After finding the graft union, the depth of the hole can be easily determined by measuring from the graft union to the bottom of the root system, pot, or root ball. The width of the hole can vary. With bare root trees, dig the hole just wide enough to accommodate the roots when spread out. With containerized (potted) or balled and burlapped (B&B) trees, it is good to have at least a foot of space all the way around the root ball. It also helps to have the hole wider at the top. In cases where the soils are compacted, heavy clay or both, it is a good practice to dig the holes especially wide and also plant the tree slightly higher.
Planting the tree
Place the tree in the hole, then double check that it is at the correct height. This is also the time to make sure the tree is facing the right way. Due to injuries and pruning, a tree may have one side that looks better than the other. It may be preferable to have the tree’s best side facing a particular direction. Next, you can start to backfill with soil, making sure that large clumps of soil are broken up. As you fill in the hole, you want to firmly pack the soil with the heel of your foot. A shovel handle also works well. This is to provide support for the tree and also to remove air pockets that would cause settling.
Typically, the native soil on-site is the best backfill material. However, depending on past construction practices and the site's soil conditions, amendments may be necessary. Be careful. By backfilling the hole with a different type of material you can actually discourage or restrict root growth into the surrounding native soil. This is why it is important to mix the amendment material with the native soil as you backfill around the tree.
Watering berm / saucer
Once the hole has been filled in, the excess soil can be used to make a small berm around the tree, forming a saucer or basin to aid in watering. Some people do not care for the aesthetics of the water basin. In such cases it is also acceptable to grade the soil smooth with the surrounding yard.
Mulch
There are many different types of mulches on the market. Some examples are: shredded wood, wood chips, pine needles, peat moss, and also colored synthetic (plastic /rubber) chips. The purpose for mulch is to control weeds, moderate soil temperature, control water loss, aid in water absorption, limit competition from turf, and prevent lawn mower damage. These are some of the reasons why mulch is strongly recommended, especially an organic mulch such as a shredded hardwood mulch.
Watering
When watering, you want to soak the soil through to the base of the root system. This should be done right after the tree is planted. Then water again in the same manner every week for the next two weeks. Water as needed for the rest of the first year during periods without rain.